Are you up for a challenge? I thought I was, but at the end of a full day of walking, I’m not so sure.

I’ve been pining to be back on pilgrimage since we left the Camino in Pamplona, in October, having dipped our toes into the first few days of the French Camino.

Now we are setting out on a slightly bigger challenge, walking the Portuguese Camino from Porto in Portugal, 170 miles to Santiago de Compostela.

We’ve been “training” on the South West Coast path for a few weeks, walking with backpacks and I thought I was doing OK. But after a few hours walking today my pace began to slow, my shoulders ached and my legs felt so heavy…

My rucksack seemed manageable when I picked it up this morning. That’s because I’d ditched nearly everything I normally travel with… out go those “backup” items or anything I’d normally throw in “just in case”.

But then I filled up my water bottles and I could feel the weight of it sink onto my hips. Oh for a donkey, to walk beside me carrying all my gear!

On the bright side, we were greeted by the sounds of a talented cello busker outside the cathedral when we picked up our Camino passports. It was a beautiful send off and then the sun came out as we walked the never ending path beside the sea.

Crashing waves on the golden sand cheered me on each step, but I kept hearing a jingling sound just behind me. Thinking someone was approaching I glanced back several times, only to find the path empty.

When we eventually stopped for a late lunch the mystery was solved. I noticed the two scallop shells I’d hung from my rucksack – the symbol of the Camino. Now I am listening for their gentle tinkle urging me on every step.

Only about 144 miles to go!