Tag Archives: Portuguese Camino

Pentecost pilgrims

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It’s always the last mile that’s the hardest! You think you must be there and the end is just around the corner or over the next hill… then it isn’t!

Arriving in Santiago de Compostela was just like this – we’d seen the cathedral towers in the distance way back, the streets were getting narrower and the yellow arrows appeared to have given up. Which way now? Then I spotted a brass scallop shell in the pavement – this was the way. We must be close! The narrow cobbled streets were full of people and it was hard work negotiating a way through with a back pack and walking poles.

At last we were entering the huge piazza and the immense cathedral frontage loomed above us. We’d arrived at the same time as a couple of pilgrims from the Netherlands who we’d be sharing the last few days of the journey with off and on. We all laughed and hugged and said the inevitable congratulations to one another.

Each of us seemed somehow dazed and after taking a few photos we just dropped our rucksacks and sat on the ground looking up at the vast stone towers.

We’d made it. It felt good. All around the square there were groups of pilgrims taking photos, couples hugging, people cheering, while some just sat staring ahead as if they couldn’t believe it was over.

As I limped towards the Pilgrim’s Office to collect my certificate, I was still trying to work out what it was all about. It had been more than a physical challenge, something else was going on and for each of us that would be different.

An hour or two later as I sat in one of the plain wooden pews inside the cathedral gazing up at the huge silver thurible suspended over the altar, I was still wondering what this Camino meant for me.

I have loved being immersed in God’s creation walking through such beauty and variety, from the sandy coastal boardwalks to the steep stone and water trails, with twisting paths beside gushing streams carving a route between moss clad trees and huge boulders. Then being bathed in scented shade through forests of eucalyptus and pines.

I have also loved meeting pilgrims from all over the world – sharing stories, giving encouragement and re-meeting each another throughout the journey. One group of young people from New York, who we had shared a meal with in our very first hostel, were so happy to meet up with us again on that final path into Santiago. The connection with others along the road is a very important part of pilgrimage.

But one thing stands out for me in all this and that has been precious time to talk with God in an unhurried way as I walk. Walking alone surrounded by nature has opened up a window on prayer that has been invaluable. I have loved chatting with God, asking for help, guidance and healing for friends, for family, and for myself. I’ve had a chance to listen to his still small voice whispering through the grasses or reassuring me as I rest my palm against a mossy tree trunk. I’m so grateful for this time and for new perspectives, deeper calm and glimpses of a rhythm of grace I have been searching for.

As we journey back by bus from Santiago to Porto for our flight home, we are speeding past all the hills, valleys and towns we have trailed through these past 14 days. It brought home that it really was quite a long walk!

Yesterday we stood in awe during the Pentecost service in Santiago Cathedral, while the giant thurible flew through the air above us. It was an amazing sight as the cathedral team hauled on the ropes and the smoke from the incense filled the air around us. I’d never seen anything like it. The choral music added to the atmosphere, and with the cathedral packed with worshippers, there was a tangible sense of our prayers rising up to God on this very special Holy Spirit day.

My hope and prayer going home is that this pilgrimage experience will open up a new way of praying and of being – both on and off the Camino.

Camiño light

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There are two kinds of Camino – a fact I discovered quite soon after we began our pilgrimage. There is Camino “heavy” and then there is Camino “light”.

When we set out we decided we’d attempt to do Camino heavy. This means walking the way and carrying everything you will need in your back pack. However little you pack, it’s still too much and by the end of the day your shoulders and basically everything aches!

But there is also Camino light. Pilgrims taking this option will have a company which takes their main luggage on to the next stop and they are then free to just carry their essentials like water, money, a hat and maybe a jumper. These ‘light’ pilgrims have skipped past me on numerous occasions, speeding by in the overtaking lane while I plodded under a bit of a burden. But, it is my Camino and I could have chosen to send my baggage on… I had chosen to tough it out and feel noble.

There are many ways to be humbled. Mine came two days ago when I suffered an injury going down a steep path. No matter how much ice and painkillers I took, I was barely going to be able to walk, let alone carry a heavy pack.

Have you heard the phrase – two are better than one? Actually, it’s a Bible verse from Ecclesiastes 4: “Two are better than one, because they have a good return for their labour: If either of them falls down, one can help the other up.”

Thankfully I am walking the Camino with someone who seems to like me quite a lot and does a good job of holding me up when I fall down. I didn’t send my backpack on via taxi, but I was able to offload most of my heavy stuff into my husband’s rucksack.

Suddenly, here I was walking Camino light!

Yesterday we set off on one of the toughest parts of this Camino called the Spiritual Variant. It takes you over the hills to the coast, then you go by boat following the route St James’ body was supposed to have travelled in a miraculous journey in a stone boat, guided by angels, which ended up in the city of Padron. This became the original starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

As we left the town of Pontevedra there were dozens of pilgrims flowing out of the town in the early morning. I’d never expected it to be so crowded. But as soon as we came to the junction where we turned off on the Spiritual Variant, we were almost alone and we breathed a sigh of relief as we headed into the hills. We were now a bit unbalanced – one of us was on Camino light and the other was on Camino very heavy!

We got through the never ending ups of yesterday and arrived at the monastery of Armenteira, high up in the hills of Galatia. We had made it – injured Camino light and stalwart Camino heavy!

I was hoping for more of the same today, but sadly the pain in my leg worsened. The only option was for the pack to go altogether. I hobbled on “pack less”, (Camino air?) while my military trained husband wore two packs!

Twenty four km later and with about 37,000 steps behind us we arrived at the coast. A swim in the sea was a must and now we are both in Camino ‘rehab’ with a glass of red wine.

There are just two more days of walking left until we reach Santiago… I am hoping the beautiful partnership of light and heavy Camino can stay the course!

Camino slow time

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The figure in rust coloured shorts with a green rucksack is disappearing over the horizon again… time to pick up the pace.

I keep telling myself “this is not a race”, but at times I’m having to increase my stride in an attempt to decrease the gap between me and my six foot six Camino companion, who seems to walk at one speed – fast!

Occasionally, I have found myself ahead. Once when I took an unintentional short cut and a couple of other times when I ploughed on because I didn’t spot him waiting on a bank or sorting out his walking poles.

Most of the time, I favour ‘Camino slow time’ – setting my own pace, not rushing on to the final destination. And this is in contrast to daily living, where we usually set out to get somewhere by a certain time or for a particular appointment. On this pilgrimage I’m discovering the destination is the journey.

We crossed a huge wrought iron bridge two days ago which marked our entry into Spain at Tui. The cathedral dominated the skyline and finding our little hostel, we climbed the steps and cobbled streets to the very top of the city. Standing below the ancient arched doorway we could hear the sounds of a service going on in Spanish. We wandered in through wide open doors and stood at the back of the packed service. It was a joy to see everyone worshipping in this ancient holy space and the songs and sounds spilling out to the streets and cafes below. The cathedral celebrated its 800th anniversary last year and it made me shiver to think of all the other pilgrims who had stood on those same stone slabs through the centuries.

What we’re doing is nothing new, because people have been going on pilgrimage for years, even Jesus took part in a pilgrimage each year to Jerusalem with his family. But we all do it in our own way and in our own time.

Today we reached the old Spanish city of Redonela and here the Portuguese coastal and central Camino routes converge. It actually seems quite crowded at times. There are families with teenagers, single people, groups of students, old friends, seasoned pilgrims with their badges and even babies! I passed a young couple pushing their baby in a buggy and drying the baby clothes on the back of their rucksacks. Last year we saw a family on mules with a young child and a baby beginning the start of the French Camino.

It takes all sorts, and while some are taking it as a challenge to complete it in as few days as possible, many others are meandering through the journey, stopping for coffee and enjoying the conversation and sights along the way.

The next stage of the Camino – the final 100 km or so – will be the toughest as the daily sections we’ll walk are longer and there are more steep hills. But we’re getting there and I’m excited to see what’s around the next corner because I have never been here before!

Camino rhythms

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My watch says I’ve walked more than 46,000 steps today, which appears to be 16 miles or 27km. My aching calves are telling me it must have been more! But here we are on day 6 of the Camino and still hanging in there.

By “hanging in” I mean we’re still walking, despite both of us having discovered a dreaded blister! At the hostel, we’ve spotted a lot of feet decorated with plasters in a variety of colours and plenty of pilgrims walking by in socks and sandals, which is a bit of a giveaway. Unfortunately we didn’t pack sandals!

Our Camino experience is starting to have a rhythm of its own now. We wake up, we fill up our water, re-pack our rucksacks and eat breakfast. Before setting off, we pray to start the day and after that we walk… and we walk.

“Bom Caminho” and “Bom dia” are our watchwords as we pass locals or fellow pilgrims. This morning we met Nathanial from the US with his friend in a cafe at breakfast, another day we were cheered by free spirit, Hennie from the Netherlands, who hadn’t booked any accommodation along the way!

We don’t know what each day will hold, sunshine or showers, steep inclines or sandy paths. Our steps are the constant each day. And as we walk there is time. Time to think, to pray, to stop and notice and to be thankful.

The rhythm of the day includes a stop for a lunch of bread & cheese beside the path or on a bench. Once we arrive at our destination, there’s washing to be done and hung out and a hunt for some food and often a cold beer!

There is a simplicity to these days that I love. We’re simply walking to the next stop along the way. It doesn’t matter when we get there, it isn’t a race. It’s our Camino – we’ll take it as it comes.

I love that there is time to listen to the birdsong, to stop and watch a stork feeding her young balanced on an impossibly large nest high up on a telegraph wire. There is time to notice things when you walk, whether it’s the largest lemons weighing down a tree overhanging the path or the colours of flowers growing in the sand beside the beach.

Today we had a nice surprise when we arrived at the hostel, as we were given two stamps in our Camino passports.

One from the hostel and another to say we were half way to Santiago! That means only about 134 km to go. This was a cheering thought as we rested sore feet, following a rather gruelling day on the Camino trail.

We celebrated by ordering a strange Portuguese variation on a club sandwich called Francesinha… it wasn’t quite what was expected as it turned out to be a very wet version!

Tomorrow we say farewell to Portugal for a while and cross into Spain. Viva la Vida!

The Camino is calling

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Are you up for a challenge? I thought I was, but at the end of a full day of walking, I’m not so sure.

I’ve been pining to be back on pilgrimage since we left the Camino in Pamplona, in October, having dipped our toes into the first few days of the French Camino.

Now we are setting out on a slightly bigger challenge, walking the Portuguese Camino from Porto in Portugal, 170 miles to Santiago de Compostela.

We’ve been “training” on the South West Coast path for a few weeks, walking with backpacks and I thought I was doing OK. But after a few hours walking today my pace began to slow, my shoulders ached and my legs felt so heavy…

My rucksack seemed manageable when I picked it up this morning. That’s because I’d ditched nearly everything I normally travel with… out go those “backup” items or anything I’d normally throw in “just in case”.

But then I filled up my water bottles and I could feel the weight of it sink onto my hips. Oh for a donkey, to walk beside me carrying all my gear!

On the bright side, we were greeted by the sounds of a talented cello busker outside the cathedral when we picked up our Camino passports. It was a beautiful send off and then the sun came out as we walked the never ending path beside the sea.

Crashing waves on the golden sand cheered me on each step, but I kept hearing a jingling sound just behind me. Thinking someone was approaching I glanced back several times, only to find the path empty.

When we eventually stopped for a late lunch the mystery was solved. I noticed the two scallop shells I’d hung from my rucksack – the symbol of the Camino. Now I am listening for their gentle tinkle urging me on every step.

Only about 144 miles to go!