Good morning America!

Captain’s Log – Cunard Ship Queen Anne – this is now the 19th day of our voyage…

Today we’ve docked in Guatemala – a country I’ve only ever viewed on a map until now. It’s an early start for our shore adventure, but the sun is shining and it’s a balmy 23 degrees at 7am!

At least we’re here on time, which is an improvement on New York (our first port of call). Sadly the storm had delayed us and we were 24 hours late which cut down time in the Big Apple by a day. When we finally glided under the brightly lit Verrazano Narrows Bridge and waved to a twinkling Statue of Liberty, dawn was just breaking and the ship breathed a sigh of relief. There is something magical about seeing the lights of Manhattan island glittering against a lightening sky.

Everyone seemed happy to leap ashore and our whirlwind visit included the 9/11 churches of Trinity Wall Street and St Paul’s. The former boasted exemplary toilets (akka restrooms) AND they were free, a church guide informed us! The World Trade Centre memorial remained as moving as the last time we visited – a silence surrounding the site that swallowed all our words.

After a little shopping (you’re in New York – so you have to!) we walked across the Brooklyn Bridge and enjoyed meandering through Dumbo. It’s not an elephant, just a rather cool area of Brooklyn. Nestled beneath the intersection of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges, it’s filled with quirky shops, cafes and restaurants in converted warehouses and historic houses, some sheltering beneath the atmospheric arches of the bridges.

Misty rain chased us back to the ship and so we hopped on the ferry, now awash with cruise guests of all shapes, sizes and nationalities – slightly conspicuous with their Cunard umbrellas!

Back on board afternoon tea was being served, just in case we needed to top up on calories again.

Our sorties ashore have gone well so far. By that I mean we haven’t missed the boat! This is always a risk on ‘Farmer do it yourself tours’ which turn out to be a lot cheaper than Cunard run ones. The only issue is – if we’re delayed the boat is not waiting for us!

Miami was our next stop and at last the sun decided to shine, so we headed to South Beach for a swim (this time I managed to keep my kit on in the waves!) There was time to phone home and enjoy a mojito on Ocean Drive before catching a cab back to the ship. Our taxi ride back turned out to be a guided tour in itself, as our local cabby explained everything we needed to know about Florida from its history and buildings to Donald Trump and the pandemic. He told us Floridians are fiercely independent and see themselves almost as their own country – hence the number of motorcyclists without helmets. (Let the Reader understand!)

As we waved goodbye to Miami, Donald Trump had moved into the driving seat in the USA and we were headed towards his latest “project” currently called the Panama Canal!

More on Central America tomorrow!

PS Still no whales!

Developing patience in Montenegro

After sailing 183 miles non stop over 24 hours the last thing you want is to get stuck in customs.

We pulled alongside the customs jetty at the little port of Budva in Montenegro, just after lunchtime. We were all a little weary and ready to find a peaceful anchorage, before catching up on sleep. But nothing is simple when crossing borders it seems and this time, not because of Brexit!

Our skipper had carefully lowered the Greek flag and raised the Montenegrin one, along with the yellow flag, that tells them we are asking a question.. “May we enter Montenegro please?”

We thought the paper work might take a little while and the skipper disappeared with our passports and a serious folder of documents… this was the beginning of a very long wait. An hour later there was a problem – we hadn’t had our passports stamped out in Greece… and Montenegro is not in the EU!

The friendly harbour master and customs police were trying to help, but the policeman was agitated that we were waiting a long time on his quay – something about ‘Big Brother’ watching him and boats not being allowed to stay too long. The next issue was that a machine wasn’t working in the customs office so the skipper must walk half a mile to the Post Office to pay and printed off the sailing vignette (permit). Two of us used this as an opportunity to nip into the old walled town and find a local SIM card to get us connected.

Montenegro was a country none of us had visited before and I was intrigued to know more of its history. The little port was busy with colourful water taxis arriving from the beaches with visitors wanting to see the ancient walled town, which was a maze of cool narrow cobbled streets.

When we got back to the boat there was still no sign of the skipper but eventually he returned… but wait for it… someone at the Post Office had filled in one of numbers wrong – the vital paperwork was invalid. He must head back to the Post Office and rejoin the growing queue again! This time he was so long we were getting hungry. We feared he’d been kidnapped or just got disillusioned and gone to find a whisky! Just before we sent for a search party, he appeared.

The sun had set and dusk was approaching by the time we were eventually given permission to leave and could officially find an anchorage. After one aborted attempt, it was dark by the time we dropped anchor between a rocky outcrop and the beach. We fell asleep with twinkling lights from the shore framed by the cabin windows.

Could anything else possibly go wrong?

We were wowed by Montenegro’s famous Bay of Kotor a fjord-like sight in the middle of the Mediterranean. As we sailed up towards the ancient town of Kotor, we spotted what looked like a mini wall of China zigzagging up the mountain side above the port and offering 365 degree protection from attackers. It felt like something from a fantasy film. We enjoyed a few hours meandering through this historic town with its Venetian and Turkish roots offering a new delight at every corner. Its smooth cobbles, tiny passageways and shuttered windows with ironwork balconies, hung with washing, made us feel we had almost arrived in Italy.

The next day we left Kotor to the hundreds of cruise liner guests who arrived in front of us first thing in the morning. The two huge ships almost dwarfed by the surrounding mountains.

As we headed along the bay an issue with our rudders needed sorting, so we hovered as we tried to fix it. But in the process, suddenly we lost our steering altogether…In addition to knots and winds and tides and sails, sailing seems to require a good knowledge of engineering and electronics, which are both a mystery to me!

As the boat bobbed in the middle of the bay, I wondered how we’d stay off the rocks we were slowly drifting towards if we couldn’t fix the problem. I was informed by a reliable source, that with two engines we’d still be able to steer because “it’s just like a tank.” For anyone whose driven one of those…

With some calm and logical thinking, a bit of trial and error, the hydraulics steering problem was eventually solved and we could steer the boat again. I felt very relieved as we motored out of the entrance and turned right towards Croatia…hopefully that was the end of dramas, for today at least!

Sailing into the night… after escaping the parade

Last night I watched the sun setting across Corfu and this morning saw the first wisps of grey night cloud being ushered out by the dawn. It’s been a long night sail heading up the coast of Albania.. but at least we’re sailing.

After waiting almost a week to get on board, there were a few more delays to endure, as we bobbed on the water in sight of the boatyard, while engineers fixed bits and pieces and checked an engine issue.

We all breathed a sigh of relief when we set sail and an anchorage on the island of Paxos was not a disappointment. Swimming was a must. And the crystal clear water was a refreshing temperature!

Another engine issue and the need for some medical advice for one of us, took us to a little marina tucked below the walls of the fortress at Corfu town. Our boat had a great view of the marine traffic in and out of the port and all the antics of boats attempting to slide into moorings. Our one night stay turned into two, but by now we’d become accustomed to delays…

The route up to the town took us through a tunnel in the fortress wall and through the ancient cobbled routes to the moat and gatehouse. There was just one route in and out, and this became a bit of an issue the next day when the carnival arrived in town.

Two of us had headed out into the town and been told by the woman at the gatehouse it would be closed from 13.30… we were a bit bemused, but we made sure we headed back by 12.30. The streets were packed and the road we needed to cross was lined with police and roped off. We could hear the sound of a marching band and flashes of uniformed red and gold jackets passing by – it seemed the parade had already started. Squeezing through the throng lining the road, I ducked under the rope and was glared at by a policeman.

“We need to cross the road,” I said.

“Get behind the rope,” he said sternly.

“But we have to get to our boat,” I said. He was not amused.

“Behind the rope!” He insisted, and I imagined him reaching for his gun.

I ducked back under and pushed through the crowd and back to the path behind, but now my crew-mate was nowhere to be seen. I tried calling and sending a message – no answer! What else could go wrong? Suddenly, to my relief, she appeared and we decided to try to cross the road further up.. We had no idea how long the marching bands and colourfully dressed paraders would continue. Finding a way to the edge of the road which wasn’t roped off, we spotted a gap in the parade and with no police nearby we ran across to the other side, fearing a shout from a policeman at any moment! Now we just had to get through the gate into the fortress. Two smartly dressed men standing in front of the gate told us the castle was closed.

“But we have to get to our boat,” we pleaded. They just shrugged. Through the bars of the closed gates two or three people were watching the parade from the other side and taking pictures.

“They told us one o’clock I said and it’s only 12.30!” Suddenly the woman who had let us out spotted us and the gate opened an inch.. she nodded and let us in. The parade must have started earlier than she’d expected. We crossed the moat, relieved to be reunited with our boat, which was waiting patiently as usual!

Our engine finally fixed, we decided to make up for lost time by sailing all the way to Montenegro in one hop – a 23 hour journey if we stayed on course.

Night sails can be wonderful and peaceful and we settled into our midnight watch in the light of the moon. But it wasn’t long before clouds appeared and an electric storm flickered in the distance.

The wind picked up, switched direction and suddenly it was raining and we needed to drop our sail! It’s amazing how quickly things can change on a boat from complete serenity to frantic activity. The next few hours we stared at lights from yachts, fishing boats and cruise ships, working out their direction and taking care to avoid them, while keeping ourselves on course. In between we made tea and hunted out cookies and crisps – it turns out night watches make you hungry! And there’s never a dull moment, even with an auto pilot.

As dawn broke the other watch woke and I fell into bed. We were still some hours from our destination before the ragged mountains of Albania, would give way to the tree-lined bays of Montenegro. Thankfully, I had no idea how much our patience would be tested again later that day…

Trains: laugh or cry?

I stumbled into a ‘commuter sit com’ yesterday… the cast included tubes, trains, buses and a woman without a shoe. I had to laugh or I’d have cried.

It was a sultry afternoon in the big smoke and I’d planned to leave an hour or two earlier, but found myself juggling and then dropping luggage en route to the tube. This included a pulley case, a large handbag that wanted to slide off my shoulder and a 6ft poster partly encased in a cardboard tube. I was pleased to bump into a colleague also off to the station and as we stood on the platform we discussed tube routes and places to live and work in London. The platform was filling up and after we’d been chatting over an announcement, we were puzzled to see everyone leaving both platforms and heading back up the stairs to the entrance. What else could we do but follow? There were no underground staff in sight to give advice or point in the direction of helpful buses. Luckily my colleague knew the bus routes and we strolled for half an hour through beeping traffic and people-lined streets. The poster was getting shirty and as I tried to slide it back under my arm the white lid at the bottom popped off and rolled along the pavement. As my colleague skipped towards it, we both sighed as it toppled into a deep brown puddle and disappeared from sight.
“It’s OK no problem,” I said, thinking, “Crap, crap and double crap,” or words to that effect, as the poster slid through the tube again and I hoisted it up against my shoulder. When we eventually arrived at the bus stop for number 18, there were no buses in sight and the iphone showed three or four all bunched up some miles away. We sweltered on the pavement as successive buses with eights in came and went. Number 228, number 28, more 228s – no number 18. Eventually it arrived and sitting on the back seat with my poster safely stored and carry on case at my feet we were making good progress. All I had to do was watch the electronic ticker screen for the right stop for Baker Street… meanwhile we were moving again, so all was good.

About 10 minutes later, as we gazed at the screen instead of the next stop the words ‘terminating’ flashed up and seconds later the bus had pulled in at some traffic lights and the driver said everyone would have to get out and catch one of the posse of buses behind. I secretly reckoned he needed a loo stop. We sighed and back out in the sunshine there were no buses in view, but there was a tube station just across the road. Having worked out which line to pick up to get to Victoria we found ourselves in a huge crowd pressed together waiting for a lift to the platform. More tube, case and bag manoeuvres followed as I knocked a few grumpy commuters on the head with the poster and also tried not to drop the bankcard I was using as a ticket.

Congestion-on-the-london-underground

After letting one tube go because there was no way my poster, bags and I were fitting into the sardine tin that was masquerading as a carriage, we eventually squeezed into a slightly less packed train and a few stops and changes later I was filtering towards the way out. The route to the escalator was packed with people moving at a snails pace and the mainline station was the same. All my trains south had ‘delayed’ next to them and I found myself very hot and waiting with a throng of other frustrated would-be passengers for news of two possible trains without a platform number. When it eventually flashed up half an hour later I trudged towards the snake of coaches and started counting carriages to avoid the first four, which were heading to Bognor.

I found a seat and settled down, but still wasn’t sure if I was in the correct part of the train. I wasn’t. It was that kind of journey. Before it set off I trundled bags and poster down the length of the train to carriage number 4 of 12, which involved a lot more collisions with other people’s bags and heads and arms and legs that were blocking my route, scattering sorrys as I went.

Thankfully I secured a seat and we were off. It was a direct train to Emsworth… well that’s what I thought. Surely it couldn’t be as bad as the journey the day before when I’d arrived at the station to find my train had been cancelled? I had to change twice, only just getting to my meeting on time.

A few stations on there was a commotion behind me next to the doors as someone screamed, “My shoe, my shoe! I’ve lost my shoe – it’s fallen down  between the train!” People were looking concerned and hoping no-one was going to try and be heroic and reach down to fetch it. There were no rail staff in sight and the wailing and worrying continued from the distressed passenger. Her friends were shouting out for someone to help, until one piped up. “You’ve got more shoes in your bag haven’t you?”
“Yes,” she said, “Of course I have more shoes, but I want my shoe, I’ve got a flip and I can’t flop now!”

The doors closed and we were moving. A lone flip-flop was abandoned on the tracks below. The ‘one-shoe’ woman’s party of 40 somethings were Bognor-bound and continued to discuss the missing shoe loudly. They then realised they were in the wrong part of the train. What followed could only happen on an English train. The five or six women, carrying clanking bottles of booze, cases and a blackboard of instructions, including ‘take off your bra’ and ‘sing a line from Queen’, pushed and shouted their way down the corridor of hot standing commuters. An elderly lady with a stick opposite looked astounded at the conversations and another one at the table put her head in her hands as the shouting for people to move out of the way and questions over whose luggage was blocking the corridor echoed round the carriage. Eventually the carriage doors closed and their piercing voices faded to a muffled clamour. “Lock that door,” snapped a man with a closely cropped beard sitting on a single seat. Everyone giggled. Then the singing started and the automatic doors occasionally opened to treat everyone to a full volume rendition of, ‘Like a virgin,’ and other memorable tunes.

I put in my earphones and began to enjoy the view of passing fields and hedges. Everyone in the carriage agreed that when the train divided we’d all be happily waving farewell to our band of women heading for that 40th birthday bash in Bognor. Lucky old Bognor. Unfortunately it wasn’t to be. The allotted station came and a guard slammed doors and turned keys assertively. We expected to be shunting off soon. Then the dreaded announcement…“This train won’t be dividing now due to staff shortages… wait for further notices.” Everyone was phoning friends and family to tell them of further delays to the already delayed train.

Some time later I was standing on a platform again – poster, wheelie case and now an apple core in my hand. It was nearly 8pm and I’d left the office just before 4pm… the journey had turned into a marathon. Two men beside me talked about their attempt to catch a train at 3.30pm from London. “My wife’s driving over to pick me up, do you want a lift to Chichester?” They disappeared down the steps from the platform and I looked after them dismally, wishing for a car. There was confusion amidst the crowds on the platform, but no one was panicking. We’re British. We cope and grin and bear it. But this was Friday night and everyone just wanted to be home. How we all loved English trains at this point and Southern Rail in particular. It wasn’t too long before another train slid in beside the waiting crowd on the platform and my wheelie case, poster and bag (minus apple core which had joined the breeding ground of missing shoes on the tracks below) were safely transported to Emsworth. It was the end of a very long journey. Luckily fish ‘n’ chips were waiting… Laugh or cry – you choose…

Emsworth_station,_geograph-3458487-by-Ben-Brooksbank