A rooftop encounter of the enlightening kind

It turns out ‘The Stowaway’ probably isn’t a stowaway after all. I wasn’t stalking him, but I just happened to end up on the same monastery roof…

Captain’s Log – Cunard Ship Queen Anne – this is now the 22nd day of our voyage…

Our visit to the old capital of Guatemala was to be a ‘non Farmer tour’ trip this time, which took the edge off the stress about getting back to the boat in time – we just had to find our way back to the coach.

It was however called “Antigua on your own” – so the local guide stayed on the bus! We’d heard about the beautiful cobbled streets, but even in trainers they were a little treacherous with huge holes and dips at every turn. On one street the cobbles were even being dug up by a band of workmen, causing further chaos.

The morning heat had begun to ramp up, even at 5,000 feet and at 9am in the morning, so we dodged the guides with their numbered paddle signs and headed for the famous Arch of Santa Catalina. Apparently, it was built to allow the reclusive nuns to cross from the convent to the school without being seen. Through the archway we spotted people on the roof of what looked like a cathedral – that would be a cool place to see the city, we thought.

Ten minutes later we were climbing the steps to the roof of La Merced Church and Monastery, which gave us spectacular views of the city set against a backdrop of the three volcanoes which frame the town. The dark grey mountains were capped with white clouds, that could be mistaken for smoke, but we understood that only one was currently active.

People were posing for shots on the roof with the twin peaks of two volcanoes behind them. One was a man with a rather sunburnt nose, who I recognised immediately. He was looking for someone to take his photo, now was my chance! I stepped in and smiled, taking the camera ( which is one of the oldest digital ones I’ve seen) and getting him into position in front of both the rooftop wall and the volcanoes. I asked if he was enjoying his visit and if he was going right round the world… it was a yes to both these questions, but he was more concerned that the photo was right so we tried again… I wanted to ask his name so that I could google it to satisfy my curiosity, but I chickened out. He trailed off happily to another corner of the roof and we headed up to the next level.

“That was the stowaway,” hissed my travel buddy.

“I know! That’s why I offered to take the photo – to find out more… only it didn’t feel natural to ask his name..”

She nodded and shrugged.

I’d failed! But we both agreed, he couldn’t be a stowaway, he was just a little unusual, but seemed to be having a ball. Maybe we’d never know more… but the cruise isn’t over quite yet.

One mystery sort of ‘parked’, we wandered through the grid of rather weather beaten buildings, where churches and hotels combined ancient ruins with their current accommodation. We managed to find the loveliest rooftop cafe selling coffee and delicious banana and chocolate loaf, which set us up for the journey back down to the port.

As we made our way back, we peeped through doorways and passages to catch glimpses of beautiful plant filled courtyards with fountains and pools, like a mini oasis from the dusty cobbled streets. And the most surprising of these was, wait for it, Starbucks!

The guide had told us we must all call in, and he was right, because it was like no Starbucks I’ve ever been in before. There were huge brightly coloured murals on the walls, and old ceramic tiles on the floor, which blended with the dark wood panels of the counter.

Then just past the counter an archway led into an inner courtyard where comfy wicker chairs and low tables were interspersed with trailing plants and trees and I’m sure there was a trickling fountain somewhere. The only thing to let you know it was Starbucks were the white and green carton mugs and the staff aprons! What I want to know is, why aren’t all Starbucks like that?

Once we’d located coach number 23, which we both thought was white, but turned out to be green (nil points for observation), we were relieved that the heavy traffic wasn’t our problem, because we knew the ship would wait for one of their own coaches.

In the end, there were just a few minutes to spare when we got back on board… next stop Mexico.

Trains: laugh or cry?

I stumbled into a ‘commuter sit com’ yesterday… the cast included tubes, trains, buses and a woman without a shoe. I had to laugh or I’d have cried.

It was a sultry afternoon in the big smoke and I’d planned to leave an hour or two earlier, but found myself juggling and then dropping luggage en route to the tube. This included a pulley case, a large handbag that wanted to slide off my shoulder and a 6ft poster partly encased in a cardboard tube. I was pleased to bump into a colleague also off to the station and as we stood on the platform we discussed tube routes and places to live and work in London. The platform was filling up and after we’d been chatting over an announcement, we were puzzled to see everyone leaving both platforms and heading back up the stairs to the entrance. What else could we do but follow? There were no underground staff in sight to give advice or point in the direction of helpful buses. Luckily my colleague knew the bus routes and we strolled for half an hour through beeping traffic and people-lined streets. The poster was getting shirty and as I tried to slide it back under my arm the white lid at the bottom popped off and rolled along the pavement. As my colleague skipped towards it, we both sighed as it toppled into a deep brown puddle and disappeared from sight.
“It’s OK no problem,” I said, thinking, “Crap, crap and double crap,” or words to that effect, as the poster slid through the tube again and I hoisted it up against my shoulder. When we eventually arrived at the bus stop for number 18, there were no buses in sight and the iphone showed three or four all bunched up some miles away. We sweltered on the pavement as successive buses with eights in came and went. Number 228, number 28, more 228s – no number 18. Eventually it arrived and sitting on the back seat with my poster safely stored and carry on case at my feet we were making good progress. All I had to do was watch the electronic ticker screen for the right stop for Baker Street… meanwhile we were moving again, so all was good.

About 10 minutes later, as we gazed at the screen instead of the next stop the words ‘terminating’ flashed up and seconds later the bus had pulled in at some traffic lights and the driver said everyone would have to get out and catch one of the posse of buses behind. I secretly reckoned he needed a loo stop. We sighed and back out in the sunshine there were no buses in view, but there was a tube station just across the road. Having worked out which line to pick up to get to Victoria we found ourselves in a huge crowd pressed together waiting for a lift to the platform. More tube, case and bag manoeuvres followed as I knocked a few grumpy commuters on the head with the poster and also tried not to drop the bankcard I was using as a ticket.

Congestion-on-the-london-underground

After letting one tube go because there was no way my poster, bags and I were fitting into the sardine tin that was masquerading as a carriage, we eventually squeezed into a slightly less packed train and a few stops and changes later I was filtering towards the way out. The route to the escalator was packed with people moving at a snails pace and the mainline station was the same. All my trains south had ‘delayed’ next to them and I found myself very hot and waiting with a throng of other frustrated would-be passengers for news of two possible trains without a platform number. When it eventually flashed up half an hour later I trudged towards the snake of coaches and started counting carriages to avoid the first four, which were heading to Bognor.

I found a seat and settled down, but still wasn’t sure if I was in the correct part of the train. I wasn’t. It was that kind of journey. Before it set off I trundled bags and poster down the length of the train to carriage number 4 of 12, which involved a lot more collisions with other people’s bags and heads and arms and legs that were blocking my route, scattering sorrys as I went.

Thankfully I secured a seat and we were off. It was a direct train to Emsworth… well that’s what I thought. Surely it couldn’t be as bad as the journey the day before when I’d arrived at the station to find my train had been cancelled? I had to change twice, only just getting to my meeting on time.

A few stations on there was a commotion behind me next to the doors as someone screamed, “My shoe, my shoe! I’ve lost my shoe – it’s fallen down  between the train!” People were looking concerned and hoping no-one was going to try and be heroic and reach down to fetch it. There were no rail staff in sight and the wailing and worrying continued from the distressed passenger. Her friends were shouting out for someone to help, until one piped up. “You’ve got more shoes in your bag haven’t you?”
“Yes,” she said, “Of course I have more shoes, but I want my shoe, I’ve got a flip and I can’t flop now!”

The doors closed and we were moving. A lone flip-flop was abandoned on the tracks below. The ‘one-shoe’ woman’s party of 40 somethings were Bognor-bound and continued to discuss the missing shoe loudly. They then realised they were in the wrong part of the train. What followed could only happen on an English train. The five or six women, carrying clanking bottles of booze, cases and a blackboard of instructions, including ‘take off your bra’ and ‘sing a line from Queen’, pushed and shouted their way down the corridor of hot standing commuters. An elderly lady with a stick opposite looked astounded at the conversations and another one at the table put her head in her hands as the shouting for people to move out of the way and questions over whose luggage was blocking the corridor echoed round the carriage. Eventually the carriage doors closed and their piercing voices faded to a muffled clamour. “Lock that door,” snapped a man with a closely cropped beard sitting on a single seat. Everyone giggled. Then the singing started and the automatic doors occasionally opened to treat everyone to a full volume rendition of, ‘Like a virgin,’ and other memorable tunes.

I put in my earphones and began to enjoy the view of passing fields and hedges. Everyone in the carriage agreed that when the train divided we’d all be happily waving farewell to our band of women heading for that 40th birthday bash in Bognor. Lucky old Bognor. Unfortunately it wasn’t to be. The allotted station came and a guard slammed doors and turned keys assertively. We expected to be shunting off soon. Then the dreaded announcement…“This train won’t be dividing now due to staff shortages… wait for further notices.” Everyone was phoning friends and family to tell them of further delays to the already delayed train.

Some time later I was standing on a platform again – poster, wheelie case and now an apple core in my hand. It was nearly 8pm and I’d left the office just before 4pm… the journey had turned into a marathon. Two men beside me talked about their attempt to catch a train at 3.30pm from London. “My wife’s driving over to pick me up, do you want a lift to Chichester?” They disappeared down the steps from the platform and I looked after them dismally, wishing for a car. There was confusion amidst the crowds on the platform, but no one was panicking. We’re British. We cope and grin and bear it. But this was Friday night and everyone just wanted to be home. How we all loved English trains at this point and Southern Rail in particular. It wasn’t too long before another train slid in beside the waiting crowd on the platform and my wheelie case, poster and bag (minus apple core which had joined the breeding ground of missing shoes on the tracks below) were safely transported to Emsworth. It was the end of a very long journey. Luckily fish ‘n’ chips were waiting… Laugh or cry – you choose…

Emsworth_station,_geograph-3458487-by-Ben-Brooksbank