Tag Archives: Queen Anne Ship

A rooftop encounter of the enlightening kind

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It turns out ‘The Stowaway’ probably isn’t a stowaway after all. I wasn’t stalking him, but I just happened to end up on the same monastery roof…

Captain’s Log – Cunard Ship Queen Anne – this is now the 22nd day of our voyage…

Our visit to the old capital of Guatemala was to be a ‘non Farmer tour’ trip this time, which took the edge off the stress about getting back to the boat in time – we just had to find our way back to the coach.

It was however called “Antigua on your own” – so the local guide stayed on the bus! We’d heard about the beautiful cobbled streets, but even in trainers they were a little treacherous with huge holes and dips at every turn. On one street the cobbles were even being dug up by a band of workmen, causing further chaos.

The morning heat had begun to ramp up, even at 5,000 feet and at 9am in the morning, so we dodged the guides with their numbered paddle signs and headed for the famous Arch of Santa Catalina. Apparently, it was built to allow the reclusive nuns to cross from the convent to the school without being seen. Through the archway we spotted people on the roof of what looked like a cathedral – that would be a cool place to see the city, we thought.

Ten minutes later we were climbing the steps to the roof of La Merced Church and Monastery, which gave us spectacular views of the city set against a backdrop of the three volcanoes which frame the town. The dark grey mountains were capped with white clouds, that could be mistaken for smoke, but we understood that only one was currently active.

People were posing for shots on the roof with the twin peaks of two volcanoes behind them. One was a man with a rather sunburnt nose, who I recognised immediately. He was looking for someone to take his photo, now was my chance! I stepped in and smiled, taking the camera ( which is one of the oldest digital ones I’ve seen) and getting him into position in front of both the rooftop wall and the volcanoes. I asked if he was enjoying his visit and if he was going right round the world… it was a yes to both these questions, but he was more concerned that the photo was right so we tried again… I wanted to ask his name so that I could google it to satisfy my curiosity, but I chickened out. He trailed off happily to another corner of the roof and we headed up to the next level.

“That was the stowaway,” hissed my travel buddy.

“I know! That’s why I offered to take the photo – to find out more… only it didn’t feel natural to ask his name..”

She nodded and shrugged.

I’d failed! But we both agreed, he couldn’t be a stowaway, he was just a little unusual, but seemed to be having a ball. Maybe we’d never know more… but the cruise isn’t over quite yet.

One mystery sort of ‘parked’, we wandered through the grid of rather weather beaten buildings, where churches and hotels combined ancient ruins with their current accommodation. We managed to find the loveliest rooftop cafe selling coffee and delicious banana and chocolate loaf, which set us up for the journey back down to the port.

As we made our way back, we peeped through doorways and passages to catch glimpses of beautiful plant filled courtyards with fountains and pools, like a mini oasis from the dusty cobbled streets. And the most surprising of these was, wait for it, Starbucks!

The guide had told us we must all call in, and he was right, because it was like no Starbucks I’ve ever been in before. There were huge brightly coloured murals on the walls, and old ceramic tiles on the floor, which blended with the dark wood panels of the counter.

Then just past the counter an archway led into an inner courtyard where comfy wicker chairs and low tables were interspersed with trailing plants and trees and I’m sure there was a trickling fountain somewhere. The only thing to let you know it was Starbucks were the white and green carton mugs and the staff aprons! What I want to know is, why aren’t all Starbucks like that?

Once we’d located coach number 23, which we both thought was white, but turned out to be green (nil points for observation), we were relieved that the heavy traffic wasn’t our problem, because we knew the ship would wait for one of their own coaches.

In the end, there were just a few minutes to spare when we got back on board… next stop Mexico.

Stowaways and parrots

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Ssh! I think we’ve spotted a stowaway!

He was fast asleep on a corner wearing the same scruffy jumper and ripped trousers that we’d spotted him in a day or two earlier….

Captain’s Log – Cunard Ship Queen Anne – this is now the 20th day of our voyage…

Today is a “sea day” as we relax on board after time ashore ( as if we’re not always relaxing on board.. No ropes to tidy or passage plans to check, not even any meals to prepare! What can you do except read, write and sunbathe?)

Back to stowaway suspicions – after several sightings in lifts and dining areas, one of us was convinced this person was not an official guest.

“Perhaps he’s sleeping rough in the laundry room and no one knows…”

This seemed a bit unlikely to me, I was more convinced he was a bit of an eccentric kicking against the ship’s dress code – just because he could!

On our entry to the Panama Canal we were up early to watch the ship make her first passage through the canal. As we squeezed in at the rail overlooking the bow and the ship was guided into the first lock with inches to spare, we glanced down at those gathered on the viewing deck below… There he was again! The Stowaway, as bold as brass, taking prime position on the bow and attempting to get help with a selfie on his camera. Maybe he wasn’t a stowaway.

Another emerging theory, floated over captain’s cocktails later, was that he actually owns the company and was an “undercover boss” seeing if he would be challenged by his crew! Had any of them spotted him, I wondered.

It took us all day to pass through the Panama Canal, an amazing feat of engineering, which several nations had taken part in at various stages. After the first locks, the ship emerged into a huge lake which was a surprise. Here we scoured the muddy jungle-like banks for crocodiles or alligators… not a sausage!

Although we hadn’t helped the process, there was a sense of achievement as Queen Anne headed out of the final locks and into the Pacific… we’d done it!

Next stop was Colombia, where we tried to recruit a ship’s parrot.

The port terminal of Cartagena was Colombia’s version of Ikea… not selling flat pack furniture, but frustratingly designed so that you had to zig through the whole maze of shops, stalls and perching parrots, peacocks in trees, flamingos behind fences and swinging monkeys, before you got to the exit. To be fair there was plenty of greenery and nice shaded paths to make up for it and the parrots were friendly.

Cartagena has its own taxi cartel and so there were no cheap rides into the old city. “Farmer tours” took off again and we skirted the ancient walls beside the sea, before wandering the narrow streets filled with coffee shops… but what coffee! We drank ours upstairs at Cafe Epoca, where a spiral staircase without rails led us to the dark wood interior, rich with the aroma of great coffee.

My favourite part of the city was the flag lined streets of Getsemani – formerly a poor area, now cool and trendy, with huge murals on every corner and brightly painted buildings. There were two nice surprises here, one was the price of Mojitos, where they offered BOGOFs, and while sipping drinks in the shade of a street cafe, we were serenaded by a ‘pop up’ group of rapping boys, who called me Barbie! (I wasn’t even wearing anything pink!)

When we clambered back on board, just before the clock struck 1pm, I wondered if the Stowaway had made it back in time… or perhaps he had not risked getting off!

We found out more at our next stop in Guatemala…