The long and winding sail

The trouble with sailing is the sails. They’re always causing a problem – you can’t do without them but there’s always an issue. It would be much simpler to fold them away and just switch on the engine, but that wouldn’t be sailing!

The other day several hours were spent at anchor without wind attempting to “prepare” a new sail on the deck. We’d dutiful watched YouTube videos to see how it should all be done – but the hardest part (actually packing it, like a parachute into a huge wizard’s hat called a ‘snubber’) no one showed… a long, long time later, after much hoisting, pulling and twisting the paper thin sail and ropes, it seemed to be in.

And as my patience is in need of work, I even disappeared in the midst of all this to go paddle boarding for half an hour… when I came back, after exploring an old submarine tunnel in the next bay, they still hadn’t quite finished!

Stowing the paddle board, I rejoined the ‘A’ team as they attempted to hoist the 18 metre long wizard’s hat up the mast. But more rope twists were found inside, so it had to be partly pulled out yet again. Eventually, it was ready. We all breathed a sigh of relief… But we would now have to wait for the right wind strength and direction to test it out… would it unfurl like the YouTube videos… or would it be a disaster? Only time would tell… patience, patience!

While I was waiting I made a list of essentials to bring on a sailing trip:

1. Nail varnish – it’s bound to get chipped when you trip over hatches, ropes and steps, so have some ready to touch up!

2. Instant coffee – surprise item on a ‘real coffee’ addict’s list. But when the sun is out, every day is a “Frappe Day” on board ! You could also do with the mini electric whizzer for these!

3. Strawberry jam – for the scones you’ll be baking, of course. We are having to do without Devon clotted cream, but we’ve had two ‘afternoon cream teas’ so far with delicious home baked scones! Thank you Simon!

4. Strong stomach – not because of sea sickness, but essential when you make a sandwich with two week old cold chicken by mistake! We survived to tell the tale.

5. Sunglasses with a strap – you know you’re going to forget you’ve got them on when you bend over to check the anchor!

Back to our beautiful parasail. The wind was light and coming from behind so at last we could try it.. There was a little glitch on the first attempt, but considering it was a new system, it was flying proudly quite quickly.

We all raced to take photos before it collapsed and then sat back to enjoy the display… but as usual in sailing it wasn’t long before a wind change forced us to lower the ‘hat’ and choose another sail to suit the wind… never a dull moment. Our ‘Harry Potter’ sail would have to wait for another day again!

Developing patience in Montenegro

After sailing 183 miles non stop over 24 hours the last thing you want is to get stuck in customs.

We pulled alongside the customs jetty at the little port of Budva in Montenegro, just after lunchtime. We were all a little weary and ready to find a peaceful anchorage, before catching up on sleep. But nothing is simple when crossing borders it seems and this time, not because of Brexit!

Our skipper had carefully lowered the Greek flag and raised the Montenegrin one, along with the yellow flag, that tells them we are asking a question.. “May we enter Montenegro please?”

We thought the paper work might take a little while and the skipper disappeared with our passports and a serious folder of documents… this was the beginning of a very long wait. An hour later there was a problem – we hadn’t had our passports stamped out in Greece… and Montenegro is not in the EU!

The friendly harbour master and customs police were trying to help, but the policeman was agitated that we were waiting a long time on his quay – something about ‘Big Brother’ watching him and boats not being allowed to stay too long. The next issue was that a machine wasn’t working in the customs office so the skipper must walk half a mile to the Post Office to pay and printed off the sailing vignette (permit). Two of us used this as an opportunity to nip into the old walled town and find a local SIM card to get us connected.

Montenegro was a country none of us had visited before and I was intrigued to know more of its history. The little port was busy with colourful water taxis arriving from the beaches with visitors wanting to see the ancient walled town, which was a maze of cool narrow cobbled streets.

When we got back to the boat there was still no sign of the skipper but eventually he returned… but wait for it… someone at the Post Office had filled in one of numbers wrong – the vital paperwork was invalid. He must head back to the Post Office and rejoin the growing queue again! This time he was so long we were getting hungry. We feared he’d been kidnapped or just got disillusioned and gone to find a whisky! Just before we sent for a search party, he appeared.

The sun had set and dusk was approaching by the time we were eventually given permission to leave and could officially find an anchorage. After one aborted attempt, it was dark by the time we dropped anchor between a rocky outcrop and the beach. We fell asleep with twinkling lights from the shore framed by the cabin windows.

Could anything else possibly go wrong?

We were wowed by Montenegro’s famous Bay of Kotor a fjord-like sight in the middle of the Mediterranean. As we sailed up towards the ancient town of Kotor, we spotted what looked like a mini wall of China zigzagging up the mountain side above the port and offering 365 degree protection from attackers. It felt like something from a fantasy film. We enjoyed a few hours meandering through this historic town with its Venetian and Turkish roots offering a new delight at every corner. Its smooth cobbles, tiny passageways and shuttered windows with ironwork balconies, hung with washing, made us feel we had almost arrived in Italy.

The next day we left Kotor to the hundreds of cruise liner guests who arrived in front of us first thing in the morning. The two huge ships almost dwarfed by the surrounding mountains.

As we headed along the bay an issue with our rudders needed sorting, so we hovered as we tried to fix it. But in the process, suddenly we lost our steering altogether…In addition to knots and winds and tides and sails, sailing seems to require a good knowledge of engineering and electronics, which are both a mystery to me!

As the boat bobbed in the middle of the bay, I wondered how we’d stay off the rocks we were slowly drifting towards if we couldn’t fix the problem. I was informed by a reliable source, that with two engines we’d still be able to steer because “it’s just like a tank.” For anyone whose driven one of those…

With some calm and logical thinking, a bit of trial and error, the hydraulics steering problem was eventually solved and we could steer the boat again. I felt very relieved as we motored out of the entrance and turned right towards Croatia…hopefully that was the end of dramas, for today at least!