Welcome to Italy

It had been a long day, but Italy was in sight at last. I weaved across the deck to start securing the fenders, ready for our final approach into the harbour of Chioggia. I could see the first green light marking the outer harbour wall, and a pale pink was starting to spread across the blue clouds on the horizon.

As I gazed around the line of breakwaters ahead, I noticed a fast launch speeding out through the entrance and turning in our direction. I bent my head to tie the fender, and glanced up again, expecting the boat to have turned to pass us. It hadn’t and it was speeding fast directly towards us, pounding the waves at it gathered speed. I glanced back at the helm. Hadn’t they seen us? We were hard to miss!

“Is it a police boat?” came the call from the helm. It didn’t look like one to me, I stared harder and saw grey and yellow, but no blue flashing lights, so I shook my head.

“Looks ordinary to me!”

A minute later, as we started to turn a little out of its path, it was even closer and suddenly there were blue lights flashing and shouts and gestures from the approaching boat. They were motioning us to move across away from the harbour entrance. I hurried to attach more fenders as the boat swung alongside us. The crew had ropes ready and obviously intended to come onboard or something. What had we done wrong? We’d only sailed 10 hours straight from Croatia, and it’s also in the EU… what was their problem?

Thankfully there were no guns being thrown around and after a rather bumpy hurried procedure, as the police launch attached itself to us, we became a floating raft, while they ‘politely demanded’ passports and papers and asked where we had come from. 

Then after the skipper handed over the documents, we waited and watched them flick through passports, scan them into their onboard computers and scrutinise papers… We all wondered what was next – would they need to search the boat for drugs or illegal immigrants? It seemed to be taking a long time and through the tinted glass of their cabin we could see them holding up passports and tapping in numbers on screens… all while we bumped and bobbed beside them in the waves.

One of the police crew members left to supervise the fenders and ropes and stop us all drifting onto the rocks beside the harbour wall, made conversation with the skipper, who luckily spoke a little Italian. Meanwhile, our crew members attempted to take surreptitious photos of the situation without getting arrested!

Half an hour later, the chief appeared from below and said all was in order and we could go. One of his crew looked up at the pink sky and said, “It’s beautiful!” I agreed, but thought, “Yes it is, but now please let us find the marina and get sorted before it’s dark!”

One positive from the surprise customs ‘check-in’ was that the police (who became friendly once they saw we weren’t smugglers) could point out exactly where to go to tie up in Chioggia and told us we didn’t need to go anywhere else to report our presence, it was all sorted and we were legally allowed to enter Italy.

At last, Venice was just around the corner…

 

The long and winding sail

The trouble with sailing is the sails. They’re always causing a problem – you can’t do without them but there’s always an issue. It would be much simpler to fold them away and just switch on the engine, but that wouldn’t be sailing!

The other day several hours were spent at anchor without wind attempting to “prepare” a new sail on the deck. We’d dutiful watched YouTube videos to see how it should all be done – but the hardest part (actually packing it, like a parachute into a huge wizard’s hat called a ‘snubber’) no one showed… a long, long time later, after much hoisting, pulling and twisting the paper thin sail and ropes, it seemed to be in.

And as my patience is in need of work, I even disappeared in the midst of all this to go paddle boarding for half an hour… when I came back, after exploring an old submarine tunnel in the next bay, they still hadn’t quite finished!

Stowing the paddle board, I rejoined the ‘A’ team as they attempted to hoist the 18 metre long wizard’s hat up the mast. But more rope twists were found inside, so it had to be partly pulled out yet again. Eventually, it was ready. We all breathed a sigh of relief… But we would now have to wait for the right wind strength and direction to test it out… would it unfurl like the YouTube videos… or would it be a disaster? Only time would tell… patience, patience!

While I was waiting I made a list of essentials to bring on a sailing trip:

1. Nail varnish – it’s bound to get chipped when you trip over hatches, ropes and steps, so have some ready to touch up!

2. Instant coffee – surprise item on a ‘real coffee’ addict’s list. But when the sun is out, every day is a “Frappe Day” on board ! You could also do with the mini electric whizzer for these!

3. Strawberry jam – for the scones you’ll be baking, of course. We are having to do without Devon clotted cream, but we’ve had two ‘afternoon cream teas’ so far with delicious home baked scones! Thank you Simon!

4. Strong stomach – not because of sea sickness, but essential when you make a sandwich with two week old cold chicken by mistake! We survived to tell the tale.

5. Sunglasses with a strap – you know you’re going to forget you’ve got them on when you bend over to check the anchor!

Back to our beautiful parasail. The wind was light and coming from behind so at last we could try it.. There was a little glitch on the first attempt, but considering it was a new system, it was flying proudly quite quickly.

We all raced to take photos before it collapsed and then sat back to enjoy the display… but as usual in sailing it wasn’t long before a wind change forced us to lower the ‘hat’ and choose another sail to suit the wind… never a dull moment. Our ‘Harry Potter’ sail would have to wait for another day again!

A night to remember

“Watch out!” Came the call from the skipper, but it was too late. Seconds later a wave launched over my head and I was completely soaked..

Our night out in Dubrovnik hadn’t gone completely to plan. The idea was to enjoy a balmy evening at a cafe soaking up the atmosphere of the beautiful walled city. We’d dropped anchor in the bay outside and as we lowered the tender into the water the clouds were gathering – there was a possibility of a shower, we thought. As the dinghy set off there was an odd sound from the outboard engine and a few minutes later it stuttered and stopped. The waves were picking up and the catamaran was beginning to disappear from view. I glanced down at the bottom of the boat where two oars lay side by side… it could be a long row back.

There were sighs of relief as the skipper found the fuel connection issue a few minutes later, and we continued our evening expedition into the little harbour.

Dubrovnik has changed a bit since I was last there, 15 plus years ago. The cafes and restaurants had smartened up and everything looked shiny and more sleek than I recalled. But in essence the city is still stunning with its pale smooth cobbled streets and narrow passageways lined with cafes and lights leading up to the walls. If you’re a ‘Game of Thrones’ fan it also feels rather like a film set!

Soaking up Saturday night fun in the busy streets we eventually stopped for a drink at a cafe with a jazz band. The senior saxophonist also provided the vocals – picking out his audience with his laughing eyes and making us clap and smile as he swayed to the music in his jaunty Panama hat.

We’d hardly finished our drinks when the rain began and the band brought their set to an abrupt finish. As it was only a short lived shower we wandered through the back streets weaving our way slowly back to the port, not realising it was almost midnight.

In the harbour we suddenly saw how much the wind had picked up, with white horses rushing in from the bay. Having four of us in the tender turned out to be a good thing as the boat sat a bit lower and we were grateful for our 25 horse power engine, which I was hoping wouldn’t misbehave.

Outside in the bay the waves began to slam against the front of the boat and we all stared hard trying to spot the welcoming light from the top of the yacht’s mast. It was nowhere to be seen – just the ominous black shape of the island it was anchored beside.

Maybe it hadn’t been such a great idea heading into town so late!

The boat was being buffeted by the waves, and occasionally one hit us at the wrong angle and we rocked perilously. It was an inky black night and my fingers gripped tightly round the edge of the dinghy where I was balanced. I was really hoping the boat’s anchor had held and the yacht was still where we’d left her. There was a hush onboard as we were probably all thinking the same thing.

Suddenly we spotted a lone anchor light in the distance and moments later we were drenched by a particularly large wave that broke across us. At least the water was warm – we were laughing, but we were all aware that many more waves like that could capsize the dinghy and at night that would be serious.

As we eased in line with the back of the yacht, we gained a little protection. But with the boat tipping and rolling in the waves, securing the tender and stepping off was not going to be easy – we weren’t quite home and dry yet!

But steady hands and strong arms ensured we did all make it back on board in one piece, although we were completely drenched!

It had been a night to remember and one of the most “white knuckle tender rides” I’ve ever had.